Preheat oven to 350F. Whisk dry ingredients together in a large bowl. Cut in butter with two knives or a pastry blender. Make a well in the centre, add buttermilk, yogurt or milk, and gradually mix in the flour, going in a circle, until a rough dough forms.

Knead the dough, briefly, with floured hands—you don’t want to overwork it.

Set out parchment paper on a flat surface and sprinkle liberally with flour.

Transfer dough to the paper and pat into a rectangle. With a floured rolling pin, roll dough into a rectangle, about 9 inches wide by 13 inches long. Chill while you make the filling.

In a small bowl, whisk together the melted butter and brown sugar. Add cinnamon and whisk again.

In another small bowl, toss blueberries with flour.

Take the prepared dough from the fridge. Spread brown-sugar mixture over the dough with the back of a spoon or an offset spatula, going right to the edges. Sprinkle the blueberries evenly overtop, pressing them into the filling, and leave a one-inch border from the edges of the dough.

Starting from the long end, roll dough onto itself in a tight coil, using the parchment paper to help you, so you end up with a log. (The dough is quite sticky.)

Slice log into 8 pieces. Transfer rolls to a baking sheet lined with parchment paper, and if they’ve gotten squished in the cutting, push them back into shape with your fingers.

Bake for 30 to 35 minutes, until golden brown and bubbling. Some of the filling will inevitably leak out onto the parchment paper, but don’t worry, it will caramelize into a delicious, crunchy layer on the bottom of the rolls.

Remove from the oven, brush the tops with melted butter and cool rolls on a rack for 10 to 15 minutes. Make yourself a cup of coffee or tea and dig in.