Heat milk, sugar and birch syrup or vanilla together in a small pot over medium heat, stirring, just until sugar dissolves, about 3 minutes.

Remove from heat, pour into a bowl, with a cover, and chill for 20 to 30 minutes. Place an empty, medium-sized bowl in the fridge to chill, as well.

Whisk the cream in the chilled bowl until stiff peaks form. Add the milk to the cream and stir gently until thoroughly combined. (You whip the cream to incorporate air, which makes for softer, creamier gelato.)

If you have an ice cream maker, churn the milk-cream mixture for 20 minutes until it is frozen but still soft. Transfer to a bowl, with a cover, and place in the freezer for 2 hours to harden slightly.

If you don’t have an ice cream maker, pour the mixture into a 9 x 13 baking tray, cover, and place in the freezer. Every 30 minutes, for about 5 hours, remove the tray from the freezer and whisk the mixture vigorously. Plan this for a day (or evening) when you will be at home! The whisking will break up any ice crystals that form and ensure a creamy final product.

Eat the gelato within a week, for the best flavour. Top with your favourite syrup, fresh berries and serve it with pie or cake; or try the famous Italian dessert, Affogatto.

Place four small bowls in the freezer and chill for 20 minutes.

Brew the espresso.

Drop two scoops of gelato into each bowl.

Pour 1 oz of hot espresso over gelato and serve immediately to get the full benefit of sweet and bitter, hot and cold.

Options: pour a dash of Amaretto over the gelato, followed by hot espresso. If you like, serve thin chocolate biscuits on the side. But it’s not necessary.