Since the war in Iran started, there have been eloquent pleas on social media for the rest of the world to remember the people of Iran who have suffered under successive, brutal regimes and are now being bombed out of their homes.
Especially during war, we need to tap into our common humanity. Always, a direct way to connect with people is by exploring their cuisine. To read through a recipe, find and assemble ingredients, go through all the steps in our kitchens and enjoy flavours new to us—is a remarkable experience, bringing a people into our own hearts, minds and homes.
The act of preparing such a dish evokes the marketplaces, the farms and the customs of our fellow cooks in those countries, the families around the table, the feast days and celebrations—the love.
Despite best intentions, my first foray into Persian cooking was a fail, as I discovered when I asked an Iranian-Canadian friend to review my recipe for the traditional dish, Fesenjoon. This rich and fragrant stew, based on pomegranate and walnuts, is normally made with chicken. I used lentils and eggplant, prompted by recipes I found online.
My friend got back to me. She and her mom had conferred and agreed: this was not a Persian dish. Lentils, never. Ditto eggplant. As for the saffron-lime butter rice, a favourite recipe remembered from my days at the Chocolate Claim, forget the lime. Fesanjoon is already tart enough with the pomegranate. Saffron rice, with the butter, but without the lime, would be okay.
She kindly sent me the Fesanjoon recipe she uses (from thecaspianchef.com). I tried it, in combination with another recipe from American-Persian chef, Samrin Nosrat. The result is fabulous. The walnuts become almost chocolate-y during the long, slow cooking; the chicken falls off the bone and the bright pomegranate is a perfect foil for the deep, rich flavours.
My friend also sent me a recipe for Tahdig, the traditional Persian dish of saffron-flavoured rice with a crispy crust and a soft and fluffy interior. But I am, as yet, too intimidated to try, as Samin Nosrat notes in her cookbook, Salt, Fat, Acid, Heat (traditional Persian rice can take years to perfect). I opted for the simpler saffron rice instead.
There is a treasure trove of Persian cookbooks available in North America: visit persiancookbook.com to see a comprehensive list and, if you’re on Instagram, do a search for “Persian cooking.” You’ll find Persian home cooks and chefs sharing stunning recipes.If you like to cook to a soundtrack, try anything by Iranian-Canadian musician, Googoosh. Or for a different kind of inspiration, watch Patti Smith, Michael Stipes and Bruce Springsteen singing “People Have the Power” at a Democracy Now gathering (youtube.com/watch?v=b8g5QX5b7JQ).
Khoresh Fesenjoon With Saffron Rice
Ingredients
- Khoresh Fesenjoon
- 2 cups walnuts
- 2 Tbsp olive oil
- 6 chicken thighs bone in, skin optional
- 1/2 tsp kosher salt
- 1/2 tsp freshly-ground black pepper
- 1 large onion diced
- 1/2 cup pomegranate molasses*
- 1/2 cup water or pomegranate juice
- 2 pinches saffron
- 2 to 4 tsp sugar optional
- 1 Tbsp lemon juice optional
- Pomegranate arils seeds for garnish.
- Saffron Rice
- 1 cup white basmati rice
- 1 3/4 cups water
- 1 tsp Kosher salt
- 2 Tbsp butter
- 2 pinches saffron threads
Instructions
- Khoresh Fesenjoon
- METHOD
- Preheat oven to 350F. Spread walnuts on a baking sheet and roast for 8 to 10 minutes, until golden-brown and aromatic. Remove from oven and let cool. Once cool, grind in a food processor to a coarse texture; stop before walnuts become butter. Set aside.
- Season chicken thighs on both sides with salt and pepper. Heat oil in a casserole over medium-high heat. Once shimmering, cook chicken thighs, in batches if necessary, until golden-brown, about 3 to 4 minutes per side. Remove to a plate. Pour off all but 2 tablespoons of fat from the pan.
- Add onion to the pan, lower heat to medium and cook until soft and golden-brown, about 18 to 20 minutes.
- Stir in pomegranate molasses, walnuts and half-cup water or pomegranate juice. Add the chicken to the pan, making sure it’s fully immersed in the sauce.
- Cover, bring to a simmer and, once simmering, turn heat to medium-low and prop the cover partially open. Cook for 2 1/2 to 3 hours, stirring occasionally to make sure the sauce doesn’t stick to the bottom.
- Place the saffron in a small bowl and add 1 tablespoon of hot water. Allow to bloom for a couple of minutes, then stir into the stew.
- Taste, and if the flavour is too acidic, add a bit of sugar to tone it down (I added 2 teaspoons). Add lemon juice if the sauce needs more bite.
- Transfer to a serving dish and scatter pomegranate arils overtop. Serve with saffron rice and the traditional Shirazi salad of tomato, cucumbers and onion tossed with chopped mint, lemon and olive oil.
- Saffron Rice
- METHOD
- Pour rice into a medium-sized pot and cover with cold water. Swish to remove starch and pour off water. Strain through a sieve.
- Combine washed rice, water and salt in the same pot, bring to a boil over high heat, cover and reduce heat to medium-low. Simmer for 20 to 25 minutes, until tender. Let rest for 5 minutes, covered. Fluff rice with a fork before adding saffron-lime butter.
- Combine saffron with one tablespoon of water in a small bowl, to allow saffron to bloom. Melt butter in a small pot or a measuring cup in the microwave; and once melted, add saffron.
- Stir into the rice to evenly combine, and fluff rice once more before serving.
