METHOD
To make dough: in a large bowl, whisk flour, baking powder, baking soda, sugar, salt and pepper. Scatter in the butter and toss.
With your fingers, a pastry cutter or two knives, cut in the butter until the pieces are the size of peas.
Make a well in the center and pour in the whey, buttermilk or yogurt. Stir with a fork to combine. When the dough is close to coming together, mix in the final bits of flour with your hands.
Lightly flour a counter or a piece of parchment paper. Transfer the dough to the floured surface and form into a rough rectangle of about 10 x 5 inches. Fold into thirds, as you would a letter. Rotate, so the long side is facing you. Cut in half crosswise and stack the two pieces on top of each other.
Using a rolling pin, gently roll dough into a rectangle and repeat the process above.
Roll dough into a 9- x 13-inch rectangle. Turn so that the long side is facing you. Spread cream-cheese mixture evenly across the dough, right to the very edges. Sprinkle grated cheese evenly over top.
Roll dough onto itself lengthwise, into a tight coil. Cut the log into 12 even rounds. Place on a parchment-lined baking sheet, 2 inches apart. If the rounds have gotten squashed in the cutting, press them back into a circle with your fingers. Chill in the freezer for 15 minutes.
Preheat the oven to 400 F.
Brush tops of rolls with whey, buttermilk or yogurt. Bake until golden brown, 20 to 25 minutes. Cool before serving. These are best eaten at room temperature for maximum flakiness.
If you like, freeze unbaked rolls, after brushing them, and bake them straight from frozen at 400 F, but lengthen the cooking time by 7 to 10 minutes.
Tip: When a couple of days old, the buns are great toasted—you might have to slice a bit off the top so they’ll fit in the toaster, though. Once toasted, spread with butter. Best breakfast ever!
