“A people without the knowledge of their past history, origin and culture is like a tree without roots.” – Marcus Garvey
Here in the Yukon we are so lucky to be surrounded by an incredible richness of heritage and historical places. Like all things inherited, however, it can also, at times, feel like a burden just as much as a privilege. Some might think that the North is just a place filled with trees and snow and bears, and yet there’s thousands of years of history permeating the landscapes that we get to live, work and play in each day.
There are the obvious tangible things around us: the slightly-tilted buildings built more than a hundred years ago, the rusty artifacts brought up during the construction of the Alaska Highway, the mammoth tusks unearthed in the melting permafrost, and impressive First Nations artwork. But, just as vital and important are the intangible things: the songs and dance passed down through generations, the cherished family recipes (such as sourdough bread or bannock), the skills to hunt and trap in this unique environment, the stories told around thousands of fires, and the ancient languages spoken, now, only by a few.
These pieces of Yukon heritage are links to the past, to memories and to people. They’re real, immediate ways of touching an earlier time. They can be learned from: they can help us understand and grow and even heal. It’s not a matter of glorifying the past but of seeing it as part of where we are now, in the present. We’re just another link in the continuation of our ever-evolving heritage. Not all parts of our history are things that we can be proud of; and yet they, too, need to be remembered and recognized. Like the shadow parts of a person’s identity, these dark periods of the past are undeniable components of us as a people today.
As Marcus Garvey said, heritage is the root system of who we are. It could be argued that we even have a responsibility to it—to preserve, conserve, honour and be conscious of it. The gift that historical places, natural heritage and cultural landscapes offer us is that they can foster a feeling of deeper connection to this place we call home. They play an essential role in our having a sense of identity, as individuals and as a group, and hopefully they can encourage more understanding and compassion between people. Out of old wounds can also come healing and mutual respect and admiration. Understanding where we come from can help us understand how we can live together here in the present. Let us celebrate our uniquenesses and also find the fundamental similarities that can be found in all heritage.
Historical buildings and heritage places around the Whitehorse area are plentiful and, consequently, we can forget that they are there. Two such often overlooked relics are the S.S. Klondike and the Yukon Theatre.
S.S. Klondike National Historic Site
Many of us drive by it every day, maybe not even giving it a second glance anymore. It’s symbolic of Whitehorse, as well as of the Yukon; and yet, have you really thought about what that paddlewheeler lived through? For example, did you know that the S.S. Klondike that now sits on the banks of the Yukon River, in Whitehorse, is actually the second S.S. Klondike? The first ran freight between Whitehorse and Stewart Landing, as well as between Whitehorse and Dawson City from 1929 to 1936, and was the “first sternwheeler on the Yukon River large enough to handle a cargo in excess of 272 tonnes (300 tons) without having to push a barge.” The S.S. Klondike II was built after the first ran aground on a submerged gravel bar north of The Thirty Mile section of the Yukon River (where it still lies today) and was in use from 1937 to 1952. In the early ’50s she was converted into a cruise ship by the White Pass and Yukon Route, but cost of operation was high; and so, after being abandoned in 1967, the S.S. Klondike was designated a National Historic Site of Canada. The restored sternwheeler opened to the public in 1981.
Yukon Theatre
While, each year, our options of watching movies at home increases, there will always be something special about sitting together in the dark, with a group of strangers, and experiencing a film together. The Yukon Theatre was built in 1954 during the post-war period, only a year after Whitehorse was freshly designated as the Yukon’s capital. In 1980, it was taken over by Landmark Cinemas until it was closed in 2020 during the pandemic. Fortunately, two years ago, in December 2021, the Yukon Film Society reopened this historical building’s doors and Whitehorse, once again, is home to a movie theatre.
If you’re interested in exploring historical places in the territory, the Yukon Historical and Museums Association has a long list of heritage places, historical buildings and self-guided walking tours on their website at heritageyukon.ca. Looking at their list, I know there’s still many places I hope to someday experience, especially Herschel Island–Qikiqtaruk Territorial Park and Vuntut National Park. Also, check out yukon.ca/en/yukons-living-heritage to see what you should do if you stumble across a heritage find.
And remember that heritage is so much more than just museums and decaying buildings. Look for the intangible things—such as dance, language, stories and food—because they are history that is still alive and breathing and being shared.
What does heritage mean to you? And how can you honour and nourish your own roots a bit more?
