After 16 glorious years of romance with the Yukon, I can’t help but think it might be time to experience something different. You see, I fell in love with the North in May 2007. And just like any enduring relationship, it changes and evolves. Don’t get me wrong, I had a blast in the last decade and a half. And I am still planning to have the time of my life up north. But sometimes you have to shake things up to keep the flames alive. And part of the shakeup this year will be to spend most of the summer south of 60. Destination: the Kootenays, in southeast B.C.
(But don’t worry, I will be back for the first snowflake.)
In my time in the territory, no summers were spared exploring its jewels. I paddled major rivers of the North, both in the Yukon and its neighbours: a month-long canoeing trip at the foot of the Brooks Range, in Alaska. Another summer, paddling the Little Bell River, which is right at the continental divide in the Yukon Richardson Mountains, all the way to the tiny community of Old Crow on the Porcupine River.
I am leaving just in time to not miss the summer solstice. I wonder how it will feel to sleep the rest of the summer under proper darkness? Quite a contrast with that one summer spent kayaking northward on the mighty Mackenzie River in the Northwest Territories. By the time the trip was over in late August, I found myself in Tuktoyaktuk on the Arctic coast, not having experienced a dark night for more than three months. Now, with a much darker sky in the mountains of southern B.C., I will be able to observe the Milky Way and the August Perseids meteor shower much better.
Northern road trips were also part of the romance, especially when paddling trips were too difficult to schedule. Off the rugged South Canol Road and its more-remote twin, the North Canol, I took many pictures that I am planning to turn into paintings. While almost all of the Yukon’s land is owned by Yukon First Nations or is Crown land, we are truly free to roam wherever and whenever, as long as it is done respectfully. It gives ways to outdoor pursuits many southerners can only dream of. But for northerners, it is right there at our doorstep, waiting for us. It is precious; it feeds my love for the North. We are so lucky.
I am going away to see what other Canadians have at their doorstep. Where I am going in the Kootenays, cedar and douglas fir rule the forest. No more scrawny white spruce or oblivious trembling aspen. Apple trees grow in people’s yards, and blackberries are abundant in back streets. Although I will dearly miss the much-loved cranberry and mossberry behind my yard, here in the Yukon, I can’t wait to get familiar with the cache of berries to be found in the local woods.
And then there is the weather. It gets quite hot in the Kootenays—and not just for a few days. 30C+ days are very common throughout July and August. My meagre Yukon summer clothing collection didn’t stand a chance against those smoldering temperatures. Additional trips to the free store were needed to find enough suitable clothing. My suitcase will be packed with shorts, T-shirts, tank tops and sandals.
The Kootenays are home to snakes, skunks and racoons, all of which I haven’t lived with in a long while. Hummingbirds come feeding off the bird feeder designed just for them. Deers walk casually on the streets of small mountain towns.
I will miss the Yukon summer with its fast and furious nature, when every unit of warmth counts. But there is one thing I will not miss: mosquitoes!
